
Crag Summary
Paklenica serves up a high number of routes on a silver platter making it difficult to know where to start. We ended up picking some lines we liked the look of, that were dry and *bonus* right next to the ‘underground bunker museum‘ which was small but the kids and grandparents really enjoyed – and ironically included a small kids bouldering room. There are a whole host of single-pitch climbing areas all along the main footpath from the car-park – super kid-friendly but not super-wild and a little bit ‘on-show’ for passing visitors! There are more remote climbing areas and adventurous multi-pitch adventures to be had – perhaps less kid-friendly but plenty more to explore that’s for sure. Note that there is a daily fee to enter (per person) and park (per vehicle).
I read reviews about the climbs being polished – perhaps we were lucky but I found the climbs nice and sharp (nowhere near as polished as some of the limestone we climbed in Belgium, Italy and France) however the grades did feel a tad stiff.
The rock overall dries quickly – we had a huge storm in the early morning around 4am and could see the rock drying before our eyes. Interestingly, when we arrived the riverbed running through the gorge was bone-dry but at midday the stormwater finally reached us – rushing down and filling the river with gusto – climbers on the Eastern side of the riverbank had to quickly gather up their rope-bags etc.
- Style: single-pitch sport, multi-pitch sport and trad
- Parking: 44.30263, 15.47081
- Topo and Approach details:
- The Crag provides quite a bit of information but it is quite difficult to navigate – partly because of the sheer number of climbs in close proximity.
- Some routes have a little metal plaque with name and grade.
- There is a Paklenica guidebook which definitely would be a good investment if spending more time here to really get to know it better.
- We visited on: Tuesday, 24th September 2024
- Who else was there: the number of climbers increased as the day went on and the rock dried out – many routes and space to spread out.
Nearby
The village of Starigrad nearby offers camping, access to pretty seafront and restaurant options. Restaurant Dinko was fantastic- super yummy mussels.
We came via the Cerovac Caves and moved on to the city of Zadar.
Wow Factor
The gorge and national park is very impressive. Depending on your inclination you might not find it ‘wild’ enough.
Approach
A wide gravel path from the car park to the gorge and a whole bunch of climbs.
Shade
The gorge runs from North to South so there is always a side in the sun/shade as needed. However, access to the East side of the river can depend on whether there is water running.
Playtime Base
We climbed with a wide, flat footpath at the base – complete with benches. And next to an underground bunker museum for full bonus points.
Harder Climbs
The crag excels in the moderate 6-7 range with some options for harder climbs too.
Kiddy Climbs
Whilst the most plentiful climbs start in the 6s there are lower grades on offer – watch out for polish.








