Catalogue > Europe > Greece> Leonidio – Sabotan

Leonidio – Sabaton

Crag Summary

Rating: 4 out of 5.

We approached Leonidio from the north so Sabaton was conveniently on our way in. Once we explored Leonidio further, Sabaton felt a bit like a mini-crag on the outskirts. The cliffs within the Leonidio valley are truly awe-inspiring. However Sabaton, being well-known for easy access, mid-grade options and suitable for families was still well-worth checking out. I had my eye on some of the routes in the Upper area, so our approach was slightly longer and steeper than the road-side Lower area. However we had the Upper to ourselves, had beautiful views and really enjoyed the route ‘Ronti’ with extremely cool mini-tufa features.

Leonidio is a climbing mecca and many people will spend a whole season here and return again and again. We only had time for a couple of crags and tried to pick 2 that worked well for families and winter climbing. The Panjika Cooperative climbing guidebook clearly shows that there is much more to discover as a family, especially if you are looking to have a single base and hard climbs (unlike the Argolis where crags are more spread out and grades are mostly middling).

  • Style: single-pitch sport
  • Parking: 37.17075, 22.89791
  • Topo and Approach details: The Panjika Cooperative climbing guidebook has all the latest -including a key for whether a crag is family-friendly. You can pick it up online or at the Panjika climbing shop of cafe/bar and get to know the active climbing community too.
  • We visited on: Monday, 25th November 2024
  • Who else was there: we had the Upper area to ourselves – we passed quite a few climbing groups on our way back down and out. It is definitely a well-known crag, especially for the convenient, short approach to the Lower area and mid-grade options.
  • Camping: Camping Semeli was well-run, has all the services you need with direct access to a beautiful beach.

Nearby

Sabaton is just a stone’s throw from Leonidio – a true climbing Mecca.

Wow Factor

Rating: 4 out of 5.

Lower part is near the road but with views out to sea. View got even better from the Upper part.


Approach

Rating: 3 out of 5.

The lower area is right next to the road. We climbed at the Upper and it did have a few steep bits and took us a wee while.


Shade

Rating: 3 out of 5.

NW facing – morning sun, but the wall gets shade pretty quick. Random bits of shade at the base except Olive Groove with all the olive trees.


Playtime Base

Rating: 3 out of 5.

Lower part a bit dusty, Olive Groove flat and shady, Upper had nice rock platforms.


Harder Climbs

Rating: 4.5 out of 5.

Kiddy Climbs

Rating: 3 out of 5.

A couple of 4s near the bottom, a few 5s before a jump to the 6s.