Crag Summary
We had spent a wet morning in Missolonghi town nearby and had planned to spend the rest of the day getting some miles under our belt to reach Corinth on the Peloponnese. However just as we started our drive, the sun came out, lighting up the rock of Varasova and we made a call to turn off the main road to take a closer look.
Boy are we glad we did! We only had an afternoon here, and we cherry-picked the sector which we could park right next to but this rock promises many an adventure. The mountain itself dives nose-first into the sea, it’s possible to camp right there and there are many styles to explore – from hard sport single-pitches to exciting-looking trad multis.
- Style: single and multi-pitch, both sport and trad
- Parking: 38.34370, 21.59858
- Topo and Approach details:
- Crag overview on climbgreece website
- Not sure if there is an official topo/guidebook that can be purchased?
- The Crag has descriptions and route names
- The routes we climbed had names painted on the rock in Greek
- We visited on: Wednesday, 13th November 2024
- Who else was there: we had it to ourselves – however it is meant to be popular on the weekend.
- Camping: climbgreece states that you can free camp at the parking, beautiful spot next to the rock and sea. No services, leave no trace.
Nearby
We stopped in the town of Missolonghi after a long rainy driving day mainly attracted by a simple park4night that was next to a very well-reviewed chocolate shop, Λύρος Ηλίας, open late and HIGHLY recommend! The next day, wandering about the town, we found out that Missolonghi has a notable history – the site of a dramatic siege during the Greek War of Independence and the death of poet Lord Byron. We found a statue of Byron, pink flamingos on the water and a nicely curated little museum when the rain began again. We also went back for seconds at the chocolate shop!
We also had a little explore on the other side of the Varasova rock – Limnopoulas Beach was picturesque with a cool cave to explore (and very dubious rusty bolts!)
Wow Factor
Dramatic mountain diving straight into the sea.
Approach
For the Batman sector, park next to the climbs
Shade
West-facing so shade in the morning. Also can shelter in the vehicle right there!
Playtime Base
Easy peasy – flat, grassy, kids could come in and out of the vehicle. Next to the road but it’s a dead-end so no traffic.
Harder Climbs
The Batman sector was mainly high 6s and solid 7s. Plenty more areas to explore with a wide range of styles and grades.
Kiddy Climbs
Not in the Batman sector but other areas look promising e.g. Garden of Heroes (but cannot speak to the approach/base etc.)
Crags with Kids 